Llanfair Cilgedin

A lovely afternoon at Llanfair Cilgedin, one of the Friends of Friendless Churches’ most intriguing churches. Most people go there for the C19 wall paintings, stunning sgraffito renderings of the Benedicite and other scenes (I am particularly fond of the whales and all that move in the waters).

whales_compressed

Our main purpose of visit was (as ever) a bit more niche. The church has some scraps of medieval stained glass which I’d seen before – see https://welshtombs.wordpress.com/2013/08/15/my-sledge-and-hammer-lies-reclined/ . This

Medieval Fragments, Church of St Mary, Llanfair Kilgeddin

is Martin Crampin’s photo of the medieval glass in the north window of the chancel. These fragments are obviously all that remains of a much bigger sequence (including a Crucifixion and the Apostles’ Creed) and possibly stained glass from at least two different hands. Of course, we can’t be absolutely sure that any or all of the glass actually originated in the church: some at least of it could have been bought as fragments by the nineteenth-century restorer, John Dando Sedding. (Sedding also restored St Cynfarch and St Mary, Llanfair Dyffryn Clwyd, which has a similar window with a crazy quilt of medieval glass – did he just like doing that, or did he have the fragments of glass in stock?)

We need to do some more work on this.

Meanwhile …

Llanfair Cilgedin also has some of those enigmatic post-medieval cross slabs (my rather learned article on them is available online at https://pure.southwales.ac.uk/en/publications/postmedieval-cross-slabs(39f0b31f-d6e5-4bc6-b255-2750950fe7ee).html ). The article does mention this one

Bradney

drawn by Bradney, who thought it was medieval. It clearly isn’t – the cross head is the same as those on securely dated late C16 / early C17 slabs. Here it is in the churchyard.

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The scrolled base looks like a cruder copy of the elegant scrolled bases which are such a feature of early modern cross slabs a little further to the north. Possibly the work of an apprentice, or simply a less skilled stonemason having a go?

But looking for it we also found this one

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on a chest tomb with the same style of cross head but a floriated base, a date of 1677 and a lengthy inscription

‘I know that my Redeemer liveth, and that he shall stand at the latter day upon the earth’ (Job 19:25 – and a real challenge not to sing it!

and this one

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in the vestry – not really a cross slab but an illustration of the fact that cross slabs were just one of the decorative options available for C17 ledgerstones.

All in all a good day – more on the stained glass when my friend Chris has printed out the photos, cut them up and played jigsaw puzzles with them. We may also throw Llanfair Dyffryn Clwyd into the mix and see what happens.

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Tintern Parva

Off to Tintern to check finer points of detail on two tombs in the Abbey – the one with ‘Jesu Mercy, Lady Help’ and the one with a line from the Order for the Commendation of the Soul.

But first to the little church of Tintern Parva, just upstream. I went there with Andy Delmege in 2016 when he had resumed his great trek tound Wales on the Cistercian Way. We had a service there and lunch in the pub. Milling around afterwards I noticed this

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in the nave floor but didn’t really have time to look at it properly.

The church is open daily and they have great plans for a kitchen and toilets to cater for walkers on the Wye Valley Walk. Several walkers came past while I was there and they clearly get a lot of visitors already. I think the Cistercian Way really ought to go that way – it means a road section from there to the Abbey Mill (and the only alternative is a long plod up hill to Barbadoes Wood) but the church is really worth a visit. It was there long before the abbey. A church is documented in the eighthcentury in the Book of Llan Daf but the foundation must go back earlier, possibly to the days of King Tewdrig and the spread of Christianity in rural south Wales. According to legend, Tewdrig himself had a hermitage nearby – was his little oratory the origin of the church?

I was lucky enough to meet the church warden, Alan Hillard, and his wife doing the flowers.

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(Purple, green and white. Very appropriate.) He’s an enthusiastic historian and told me a lot about the background to the church.

First up: the medieval cross. Described in the church guidebook as a broadsword (possibly someone had seen all those north Wales tomb slabs which really do have sword + shield and spear?) but it’s clearly a cross. The flared finials and the complicated 3-D base are very similar to the ones at Tintern Abbey.

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The false-relief blackletter inscription really isn’t legible but is similar in style to the one on Jenkin ap Hywel’s tomb, in the style and size of the lettering. Was this a local stonemasons’ workshop, possibly based in or near the Abbey?

Also in the nave floor is this

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commemorating Elizabeth Phillips the wife of William Fielding, a relative of Henry Fielding the novelist.

‘She was the best of house wives, & ye tendrest Wife,
Who nere Lovd Babling,  ever hated Strife
Religious, Modest, prudent, And yet free,
Abhorring Sloth she still helpd Poverty.
To moane her Losse her friends she left behind
Her body is unto this grave confind
But she (With Joy) her soul to heaven resignd.’

Family tragedy on the south wall:

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julia Roberts clearly never got over the birth of her little son and her grief at his death. The family lost other young children. John moved away and married again (the churchwarden had traced him on the census) and some of the children died after he moved, but he chose to commemorate his children by his first wife here at their home.

Another family tragedy.

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Caleb Coy was the custodian at Tintern Abbey at the beginning of the twentieth century. His son Herbert went to Cananda and then to the United States in search of work. When war broke out in 1914 he was working in a New York hotel. He came home as soon as he could, enlisted in the Welsh Regiment and was killed at Ypres. His body was never found.

So Tintern Parva was not one of the ‘Thankful Villages’ – but it has no war memorial. The adjoining parish of St Mary, Tintern has some Commonwelth War Graves tombstones in the churchyard, though the church is now disused and in ruins. There is a local campaign to get a memorial at Tintern Parva to the war dead of the combined parishes.

And on a happier note: here in the churchyard

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is the tomb of John Lorraine Baldwin, one of the founders of ‘I Zingari’ the cricket club which developed into the MCC. He wrote the first standard rules for cricket, badminton and whist. There is a lovely ‘Spy’ sketch of him

John_Loraine_Baldwin_Vanity_Fair_5_September_1895

on Wikimedia.

The adjoining tomb is that of his wife Elizabeth. Apparently they didn’t really live together. As warden of Tintern Abbey he lived at St Anne’s, the house which used to be the abbey gatehouse chapel, but she lived elsewhere – a very modern solution!

On to the abbey … that needs a separate post.

Brecon study weekend (2)

Inspired by Gwen Awbery’s lecture on the Saturday, we spotted some more Welsh poems on tombstones. This one was at Llanhamlach.

Eich cryfder ir, a’ch glendid hardd,
Fel llysiau gwiw a blodau gardd
Ar fyr a dorir oll i lawr
Gan gystudd hir neu glefyd mawr

Your fresh strength and your lovely beauty
Are like plants and garden flowers
And will soon be cut down
With long tribulation or great sickness.

Believe it or not, this is a verse from a collection of children’s hymns, Casglidu o Hymnau Dewisiol, sef, Gwobr i Blant Da. The hymn begins ‘Ystyriwch ie’ngctyd gwych eich gwedd, Yr ewch chi bawb i rych y bedd’, ‘Remember well, young ones, you are all going to the grave’. You can read the whole thing at https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=5UxVAAAAcAAJ&printsec=frontcover&source=gbs_ge_summary_r&cad=0#v=onepage&q&f=false .

The tombstone didn’t commemorate a child, though, but a man who died in the prime of life, Watkin Davies of Llechfaen, who died in 1841 aged 38.

This clearly put us in the mood to try out some re-enactment. The parish church at Llanthony seems to have been built out of part of the monastic buildings, probably the infirmary. It has a good collection of 18th and 19th century wall monuments, though oddly none by the Brutes. There is only one tomb slab in the priory ruins, this rather idiosyncratic design

with saltire cross, stylised flowers and fleurs-de-lys pointing inwards from the border.

It didn’t look big enough for a coffin lid. I tried it out. It is big enough.

(Photos are Chris Jones-Jenkin’s.)

Cogan

Cogan: stone, plaster and hope for the future

The little parish church at Cogan is one of Glamorgan’s oldest churches. Probably a chapel dependent on the minster church of Llandough, it was by the 12th century the church of a manor belonging to the de Cogan family, though the church itself belonged to Tewkesbury Abbey. There is a lot of herringbone masonry in the walls:

in England this would suggest an Anglo-Saxon date but in Wales this style of walling still seems to be found in the twelfth century.

The church sits at the end of a muddy lane in what is now the outskirts of Penarth. Its village was in decline by the sixteenth century; by 1841 there were only three houses there, and the church was derelict. It was rescued by the 3rd Marquess of Bute: though a Catholic, he restored or rebuilt a number of Anglican churches. We would now regard Cogan as one of the lucky ones. Instead of a complete rebuild or a Victorian make-over, he settled for making the building weatherproof and usable. It still has traces of medieval plaster, though the original stone benches around the nave have been boxed in with Victorian wainscot. The painting over the chancel arch must have been a Last Judgement but hardly any of it is decipherable and the cost of conserving what remains is probably disproportionate.

Now the church needs more repair. Earth has piled up against the walls, creating damp problems, and the old drains are broken and clogged. There is only a small congregation but an enthusiastic band of Friends is raising money. After the necessary repairs, they have great plans. There is a lot of tumbled stone in the graveyard, possibly from older buildings. The Friends want to construct a new building in the graveyard to house a catering facility (you can’t call it a kitchen if you want the HLF on board) and toilets, and possibly a meeting room. This would mean the church could be used for concerts and other events.

First step has been to dig out and replace the old drains and lift the rotting suspended wooden floor. At this point John Davies of the Welsh Stone Forum happened by, got very excited about the stone floor this revealed, and arranged a study visit. Meanwhile, the chancel floor had been lifted, revealing these seventeenth-century ledger stones commemorating members of the Herbert family of Cogan Pill.

No cross slabs, alas, but some finely-carved heraldry and well lettered inscriptions: this is the work of one of the better local firms of stonemasons. The floor is that shelly lias that we saw at Merthyr Dyfan and Cadoxton, lumpy and laid in random slabs like crazy paving, strange material for a floor. It seems unlikely that it was hauled all the way from the coast, so there must be a local outcrop somewhere.

On the wall outside is an impressive monument under a cornice, commemorating John Davies and his wife Mary, who died in 1800. According to local tradition this was carved by none other than Edward Williams, Iolo Morgannwg, forger, polymath and radical, but we could see no evidence for this. It could be him, though.

Here is Jana surveying the  other memorials underneath it – but they are piled up against the wall and adding to the damp. Where can they go?

Llangwm

The Monmouthshire Antiquarians and the Gwent County History Association spent Saturday in Llangwm at the invitation of the local history society. Llangwm is not so much a village as a scatter of houses, but with a much-used village hall, two churches and a chapel. It was the heartland of early Puritanism in Wales, and the great Walter Cradock was minister there under the Commonwealth.

We started the day in the village hall with a talk from the Gwent archivist, Tony Hopkins, on the commonplace book kept by a seventeenth-century landowner of the parish, John Gwyn. He was Cradock’s brother-in-law, an enthusiast for new methods of farming and fruit growing and an inveterate collector of medical recipes and snippets of local and family knowledge.

We then wandered down to the furthest of the churches, Llangwm Uchaf, now in the care of the Friends of Friendless Churches. Its great glory is its rood screen –

and detail of the carving –

some of this is medieval, some dates to John Seddon’s restoration of the church in c.1870.

And in the churchyard is this delightfully crude eighteenth-century carving of Adam and Eve on the grave of a local farming couple.

The tree is beautifully detailed and the serpent is curved around it but the two figures are hardly differentiated at all and are both wearing little loincloths of leaves.

The inscription reads

In Memory
of Anne the wife of James Thomas
of this Parish who Died Decr the 23rd
1796 Aged 50 years

To Faith and Charity her heart inclind
Gentle prudent and of an easy mind.
Ready to forgive fearfull to offend
Faithfull to her husband, true to her friend.
Her course she finished & resigned her breath
In pursuit of Heaven through ye val of Death.

Also in Memory of James Thomas
Who died Decr ye 13th 1808 Aged 83 Years.

 

The church is now in the care of the Friends of Friendless Churches (http://friendsoffriendlesschurches.org.uk/). Digging around the outside of the building to deal with drainage problems, they found another tombstone commemorating some of John Gwyn’s family and recording a gruesome local murder.

What they could decipher of it read

Here lyeth the body of Joan Gwyn
The wife of John Gwyn of the parish
[this is Joan sister of Walter Cradock and wife of the John Gwyn who kept the commonplace book]
Who departed this life in the year 1690
Here lyeth the body of Craddock
Gwyn of this parish who departed this
life … 1725
[this is John and Joan’s son, named after his uncle]
Here lyeth the body of Elizabeth
Gwyn, the wife of Craddock Gwyn of this
Parish, who was murdered in her own home …
of … 1743
Aged 31 years
… body that
Bloody villain
Who coveted both gold and hand  … only be.

This event took place at the Gwyn family home, Pwll Farm, and according to local folklore you can still see the bloodstains at the bottom of the stairs. There are more Gwyn family tombs in the churchyard.